How to Stop Leash Pulling for Good — The Real Reason Most Methods Fail

Leash pulling is one of the most common complaints I hear from dog owners. Walks become miserable, frustrating, and sometimes even dangerous. A lot of people try to fix it by switching to a harness or using a flexi leash. But here’s the real reason most methods fail: those tools don’t actually solve the problem — they just make it easier and safer for the dog to keep pulling.

If your dog and you are disconnected, the dog simply won’t care that you’re on the other end of the leash. They won’t care to listen or follow your direction. That disconnection is at the heart of most serious pulling issues.

The first thing I do when working on leash pulling is get the dog on one of three tools, in this order: a slip leash, then a plastic pinch collar, then a prong collar (Herm Sprenger only). I always start with the slip leash fitted snug right behind the dog’s ears. If the dog doesn’t care about that feedback, we move up to the next tool depending on what the individual dog actually responds to. Every dog is different.

What you really need for nice leash walking is engagement. You want your dog focused on you, not everything else going on around them. You want to be more valuable to your dog than anything they could possibly find out on a walk.

Here’s how I teach a proper heel (your dog walking nicely on your left side, not pushing past your heels):

Start by leashing your dog up with whatever tool you’re using and have them sit next to you. Then move forward and give the command “Heel.” From there, I use a combination of techniques that all focus on gaining and keeping your dog’s engagement. Most people can see real improvement in just 5 to 10 minutes when they put these together.

Here are the main techniques I use:

1. The Inside Turn As soon as your dog starts to cross that imaginary line right at your heels, you turn directly into them and do a 180-degree turn. Mark it with “Heel” as you turn. This gently reminds them to stay in position and pay attention to where you’re going.

2. The Outside Turn (Corrective U-Turn) Once your dog crosses that line, you turn 180 degrees away from them without saying a word. Just turn and go the other way. The dog will hit the end of the leash, turn around, and realize you’re now walking in a different direction. Again, it’s all about getting them to notice you and re-engage.

3. The Drawback Recall When your dog crosses the line, hold the very end of the leash, start walking backwards, and call their name with your recall word (“come” or “here”). Once they get back into position next to you, turn and walk forward again while marking it with “Heel.”

4. Sudden Stop This one is used only when your dog is already walking nicely in heel position. You simply stop walking abruptly. If your dog is paying attention, they’ll stop with you. If they keep going, give a clear correction. If they stop with you, reward them.

In between all of these, carry a treat pouch filled with something really delicious and reward your dog for any amount of time they stay in the heel position — even if it’s only for 2 or 3 steps. Mix all these techniques up in a random order throughout the session so your dog stays mentally engaged and can’t predict what’s coming next.

Having a strong foundation of obedience at home plus a solid relationship with your dog is what makes leash pulling truly disappear long-term. When your dog respects you as the leader and stays engaged with you on walks, pulling stops being an issue.

I often compare it to taking a young child to Disney World for the first time. Of course we want them to run around and have a great time. But first, we need to get out of the car calmly and hold hands while walking through the parking lot to get there safely. The same principle applies to walks with your dog.